How to Use Builder Gel or BIAB: Step-by-Step Tutorial for Beginners

This is exactly how I apply builder gel nails and BIAB on real clients: meticulous prep, a controlled slip layer, a balanced apex, and cures that prevent lifting or heat spikes. Follow these steps and you’ll get a three-week wear without wrecking the nail plate.

What You’ll Learn

• The prep sequence that prevents lifting and sidewall pockets
• How to place a slip layer and bead for a clean apex
• Cure times I use for Beetles, Modelones, Kokoist, and BIAB
• Tips to avoid flooding, bubbles, and heat spikes
• When to flash cure vs. full cure and how to finish safely

Prep for Long Wear

• Sanitize and dehydrate every nail; oils are enemy number one.
• Push back cuticles thoroughly; invisible cuticle causes lifting.
• Lightly etch with a 180-grit buffer; remove all dust with alcohol.
• Apply primer for oily nails or habitual lifters.

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Base Coat and Slip Layer

A true base coat anchors adhesion; a slip layer guides the bead.

1. Apply a thin base coat; cap the free edge. Cure 30–60s.
2. Apply a super-thin slip layer of builder gel—keep off skin.

My lamp notes: Beetles and Modelones behave best with a 60–120s LED cure. Kokoist often fully sets in 20–30s under 48W, but I still give 60s for thicker overlays.

Building the Apex (Structure)

The apex reinforces the stress point. If it’s missing, you’ll see cracks or breaks.

1. Pick up a bead, place mid-nail, glide toward the cuticle leaving a hairline gap.
2. Tilt the finger to let the gel self-level; chase any flooding with a clean brush.
3. Flash cure 10–20s per nail to freeze the shape.

Full Cure, Wipe, and Refine

• Full cure 60–120s based on brand and lamp strength.
• Wipe inhibition layer if your top coat requires it.
• File with a 180-grit to refine sidewalls and apex; use light pressure to avoid heat.

Seal with a no-wipe top coat; cap edges and cure to spec. A rubbery feel means under-cure—add 30–60s.

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Product Examples and Why I Use Them

• Beetles: forgiving self-level, but extend cure to 120s to clear tackiness.
• Modelones: non-lifting formula; good for oily nails with proper prep.
• Gelish Structure: stiff brush control; excellent for crisp apex on short nails.
• Kokoist: semi-hard feel; ideal when clients need extra strength in a thin overlay.

Troubleshooting From the Salon Chair

• Flooding cuticles: use less product, angle the finger down, and flash cure sooner.
• Bubbles: overworking the bead introduces air—float, don’t scrub. Warm thick gel slightly for smoother flow.
• Heat spikes: apply thinner layers, flash cure first, and switch to low-heat mode if available.
• Lifting: check for cuticle debris, switch to a dehydrator + primer combo, and ensure full cures.

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Quick Infills (2–3 Week Maintenance)

1. File down bulk; leave a thin base layer intact.
2. Re-prep the regrowth area; avoid touching old product with primer.
3. Rebuild apex only where needed; don’t keep adding thickness to the tip.
4. Seal and cure as usual.

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Key Mistakes to Avoid

• Flooding the cuticle or sidewalls; always leave a hairline gap.
• Relying on one 30–45s cure; give 60–120s, especially on thumbs.
• Building the apex too far forward; center it just behind the free edge.
• Over-filing the surface after cure; it thins strength and invites cracks.
• Skipping primer on oily nails; use it when lifting is a pattern.

FAQs

Do I need a base coat under BIAB? I still do. Some BIAB systems allow base-free, but base adds insurance against lifting, especially on oily nails.

Why is my builder gel still sticky after curing? That’s the inhibition layer. Either top coat directly or wipe with alcohol. If it’s mushy, add cure time or check your lamp output.

How thick should the apex be? Slightly thicker than the sidewalls—enough to resist bending but not bulky. On short nails, the apex is subtle but still present.

Can I extend with forms? Yes. Apply base, slip layer, build structure over forms, flash cure, then fully cure and refine. Keep extensions short for beginners.

Is HEMA-free necessary? If a client has sensitivity, yes—try Au Lait BIAB. Otherwise, the key is keeping product off skin and fully curing.

Final Expert Advice (Sara Kim)

Respect prep, master the slip layer, and flash cure to keep shape. Builder gel rewards patience: thin base, controlled bead, and full cures. When in doubt, use less product, add an extra 30s under a strong lamp, and never chase speed over safety. That’s how you get builder gel nails that survive daily life without lifting.